101. DIY Sock Monkeys

I couldn't end this list without having at least one sock monkey tutorial. These dolls are just fun. I've included links to several different tutorials here, but they all use the same basic materials: one pair of socks, needle and thread, and poly fill stuffing. All you have to do is choose the pattern and get crafting!

87. Coffee Cup Sleeves

Here's a simple project for coffee (or tea) lovers. Using a paper coffee cup sleeve as a template, cut out fabric (cotton or felt) and sew the ends together to make a simple fabric coffee cup sleeve.

86. DIY Sock Kitten

Here's another quick and easy project, great for kids, fun adults, and cat lovers. These cute little Sock Kittens are made with a pair of socks, needle and thread, and poly fill.

85. DIY Fabric Hobo Bag

Hobo bags are simple structures and fairly easy to construct with a minimal amount of material. 

82. Little Peeps Baby Blanket

How cute is this blanket? You'll need 10 fat quarters, 1 1/2 yards of backing flannel, some batting, and fusible web to get you started...

79. Going Green T-Shirt Shopping Bags

Turning an old T-shirt into a reusable shopping or grocery bag is a simple, clever craft to help everyone be "green." It's a Good Thing that will help protect the environment.

78. Bath Mitts

For a generous source of lather and to put an end to searching for the soap on the bottom of the tub, slip a soap bar into a pocket made from a luxurious terry washcloth.

65. Handmade Dolls

MATERIALS:

Doll template(PDF)
10 x 18 inch piece of washable fabric (body)
10 x 10 inch piece of jersey knit cotton (skin: face, hands, feet)
matching thread
embroidery floss (for features: black, brown, blue, or green for eyes; shades of red or pink for mouth)
Yarn (for hair)
batting
scissors
straight pins

INSTRUCTIONS:

Choose the yarn for the hair with care; alpaca works for straight hair, and bouclé has built-in curls. For shorter curls, embroider mohair yarn directly to head and brush slightly.


1. Use the template(PDF). Fold a 10-by-18-inch piece of washable fabric (for body) end to end, right sides facing; lay template on fabric with dotted lines of shoulders on fold, and cut out along solid lines; pin. From a nearly 10-inch square of cotton jersey (for skin), cut a 3-by-7-inch strip (for head) and four 2-inch squares (for hands and feet).
2. Starting at bottom outer edge of one leg, stitch up side to end of arm, with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Repeat on other side of body. Sew inner edges of the legs. Notch curves on body. Fold head rectangle in half lengthwise; pin. Starting at the fold, stitch a curved shape across short end, as shown, and continue stitching down open side; snip away excess fabric, keeping 1/8-inch seam allowance. Turn both pieces right side out.
3. Cut three 2-by-7-inch strips of wool or polyester batting; lay in star shape, as shown. Roll more batting into a 2-inch ball; place on star. Bring strips up and around ball; use a chopstick and your fingers to push batting inside head. Head should be firm; add more batting if necessary, smoothing with fingers.
4. Tie thread the same color as skin around head below ball to create a neck. Stitch bottom opening closed. For hands and feet, place 1-inch ball of batting on each square; bundle, tying with thread.
5. Stuff body, but not as firmly as head. Use gathering stitch to tighten neck opening. Slip head into neck opening. With a doubled length of skin-colored thread, whipstitch head to body, folding under raw edge of body. Repeat for hands and feet.
6. Use pins to mark placement of features. Sew on yarn (for hair) in loops; to keep it in place, make an extra, tiny anchoring stitch at the end of every loop. For features, insert a needle threaded with embroidery floss through the back of the head and out at a pin. Stitch features; needle should exit at the back of the head. Tie off.
   
   
   
7. Snip loops of hair, and fluff. Use your fingers to shape the face.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   Source: Martha Stewart

[Edit 12/16]—It looks like this is another project that was removed from their website, although there is a similar project, which I've now linked to both in the template links and the source link.

62. Hand Warmers

MATERIALS:

Ceramic Pie Weights Barley or long-cooking rice
2 3"x5" pieces of thick wool or cotton
embroidery floss
scissors
needle

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Cut out two 3-by-5-inch rectangles.
2. Sew together on three sides, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance; cut off corners. 
3. Turn bag right side out
4. Fill with 1/2 cup pie weights rice or barley.
5. Blanket-stitch all sides with embroidery floss.

To warm: heat in the microwave for 30 seconds to 1 minute.

Source: MarthaStewart.com

[Edit 12/16]—The original project disappeared from the Martha Stewart website for a bit. Turns out that the pie weights were holding too much heat and causing the material to burn, so instead of using that, I found a number of sites that suggested using rice (the long-cooking kind) or barley. I have several heating pads that use rice & they're wonderful.

58. Easy Felt Eyeglass Case

Finished Dimensions: 
2 3/4" x 6 3/4"
Materials:
8" x 10" sage green felt, for case
11/2" x 2" mustard felt, for outer leaves
1" x 1 1/2" peach felt, for inner leaves
Embroidery floss in rose (for case, leaves, and button) and brown (for stem)
3/4" diameter button

Stitches Used:
Double Running Stitch, Blanket Stitch, Straight Stitch.

1. Cut Case Felt and Appliqué Pieces
With fabric shears, cut two 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" pieces out of the corners of the sage green felt.

With paper scissors, cut out the leaves from the template. Pin the paper patterns to the felt pieces as designated in Materials and cut out the appliqué pieces with fabric shears.

2. Assemble Appliqué Design
Assemble the appliqué design on the sage green felt as shown in the drawing below, with the peach inner leaves stacked on top of the mustard leaves.

Make sure that all the leaves slant upward, with the largest ones at the bottom. Temporarily secure the pieces in place with glue stick.

As you complete the decorative stitches for the design during this step, tie off all knots on the wrong side of the felt. Stitch around each inner leaf 1/8" from the edge using double running stitch and single-ply rose floss. Connect the leaves with a branch by sewing stems with 2-ply brown floss and double running stitch. At each point where the leaf and stem meet, make a single stitch through all layers.

3. Sew Case
With the appliquéd side down, fold the sage green felt on the fold lines shown in the drawing above, tucking the right side under the left to create a top flap piece. With the flap up and out of the way, fold and pin the overlapped fabric in place. Starting at the bottom left corner, tie a knot on the inside of the sandwiched felt with 3-ply rose floss. Blanket stitch across the bottom of all 3 layers with stitches 1/4" apart. Straight stitch up the seam on the right side through only two layers of felt, then to the left along the top opening, around the single-layer flap, and back to the opening on the right before knotting off on the inside.

Sew the button onto the center front of the case, 1 1/2" below the opening. Fold the flap over the button and mark a 3/4" horizontal slit for the buttonhole. Make sure that the button matches up with the slit before cutting the felt. Keep in mind also that the buttonhole should not be too large or loose, because the felt will stretch. Carefully cut the buttonhole open using the tip of fabric shears or small embroidery scissors. The hole should be roughly 1/8" smaller than the diameter of the button.

4. Attach Button and Cut Buttonhole

Source: Woman's Day

Note: the leaf appliqué pattern is no longer available on the WD website, so you'll just have to wing it, but you're pretty crafty—I have faith that you can swing it.

57. Gifts for Bird Lovers: Embroidered Birds

Use these bird embroidery patterns from MarthaStewart.com to embroider tea towels, eye-glass cases, pillows, or other linens.

The Martha Stewart site uses these embroidered birds to make a bird embroidered quilt, but you don't need to be that ambitious.

You'll Need

• Bird embroidery pattern [PDF]
• Fabric (on which to embroider) —can be cotton, tea towels, cloth napkins, bags, etc.
• Transfer paper (you can find this at most sewing and craft stores. Use white if transferring onto a darker color fabric, and dark if transferring onto a lighter color fabric)
• A pencil or ball point pen (for tracing)
• Embroidery hoop—large enough to fit your pattern
• Needle
• Embroidery floss (you choose the colors)

Instructions

Download and print the bird patterns [PDF]. (Instructions are included on the patterns.)

You can use a photocopier to enlarge the images or keep them the size they are when printed out.

On a solid surface, lay out your fabric. Lay the transfer paper over the fabric (toner side down). Place your bird pattern over that and trace with a ball point pen or pencil. The pressure will transfer the paper's ink to the fabric surface.

Stitch the design onto the fabric using a chain stitch.

49. Felt Sewing Book

MATERIALS

One 5 x 7 1/2" piece of Heavy felt
button
Three, 4 3/4 x 7 1/4" pieces of Lightweight felt
needle & thread

Sewing kit items
extra buttons
needles
pins

INSTRUCTIONS

When clothes need mending, reach for this book—its felt pages are designed to keep sewing supplies organized. Devote one page to extra buttons that come with garments, one to pins, and another to needles (pre-threaded with your most-used colors).

1. To make the cover, cut a piece of heavy felt into a 5-by-7 1/2-inch rectangle. Sew a button halfway up one short end, 1/4 inch in from edge. Make the tab closure by cutting a 1 1/2-by 2-inch strip of heavy felt, rounding it at one end. Sew the straight end of the tab to the end of the cover opposite the button, halfway up the cover and 1/8 inch in from the edge; make a slit in the rounded end of tab to serve as a buttonhole.
   
2. For the pages, cut three 4 3/4-by-7 1/4-inch pieces of lightweight felt. Fold each page in half, and iron along the crease. Open the cover, and center the opened pages on top. Close book, and use a blanket stitch to bind cover with pages, 1/2 inch in from folded edge.
   
3. To make the blanket-stitch binding, you’ll need an upholstery needle and embroidery floss. Hold the book in your lap with the fold at your waist, and start in the left-hand corner: Draw floss out through the fold from inside the book. Insert needle down into fabric, 1/2 inch up from fold, 3/8 inch in from edge; bring it out at the edge, as shown, keeping the floss loop under the needle. (See illustration below.) Continue stitching, working from left to right, until book is bound.
   
   

Source: Martha Stewart

48. Backpack

This is essentially a fabric box with a lid-flap closure & straps. It looks difficult but is deceivingly easy. For the full photo tutorial, head over to Alice and Lois.

MATERIALS:

• 2 pieces of 12 x 15 in fabric
• 8 x 10 inches for outside pocket fabric
• 6 x 7 inside pocket fabric
• 2 pieces of 58 in long ribbon or cording
• ribbon
• sewing machine

INSTRUCTIONS

Step 1 – Cut all fabric. 2 pieces of 12 x 15 cotton fabric (or heavier canvas) and inside pocket fabric 6 x 7 inches. Also cut a piece of fabric for the outside pocket (shown here: a scrap piece of heavy weight Amy Butler fabric), 8 x 10 inches.

Step 2 – Iron the edges in on the outside pocket and sew the sides and bottom on the front of bag. I used the selvage for the top of the pocket. If no selvage edge, fold down the top twice and sew before sewing the pocket onto the bag.

Step 3 – Sew the inside pocket on the other piece of fabric. Do the same technique to iron and sew 3 sides onto the bag.

Step 4 – Next iron down sides and bottom of backpack 1.4 inches. Sew along the 3 edges. Leave the top side raw.

Step 5 – For top of back pack, measure and mark 2 1/4 inches down. Fold down 1/4 in and again to meet the mark. Press and sew to close to create an opening for the ribbons.

Step 6 – Place right sides of fabric together. Sew together starting and ending below the openings on the top of backpack. Now inside out the bag. Now attach a safety pin to the end of the ribbon. Start threading it through the front right of bag and go around until you reach the starting point. Do the same for the second piece of ribbon but start on the front left side of opening.

Step 7 – Tie the ends of the ribbon together on each side in a knot. Next you need to make an opening on the bottom corners of the bag to attach the knotted ends of ribbon to create backpack straps. Inside out the bag, use a seam ripper to make the openings on the bottom (see picture).

Step 8 – Pull the knotted ends through the opening and sew using a zig zag stitch. Trim the ends of the ribbon and seal.

Source: Alice and Lois

46. Alternative gift ideas for the tragically hip among us

DUCT TAPE WALLET

Given the variety of duct tape designs out there these days, you can get quite creative with this project.

MATERIALS
Cutting board
Duct Tape (any color)
Ruler
Exacto knife

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Using a dollar bill as a measuring tool, cut two strips of duct tape slightly larger than your bill.
2. Join the two strips along the long edge, overlapping them by 1/2 inch.
3. Flip the the first strips over and tape the back side, making sure to overlap the outer edges by 1/2 inch.
4. Flip it over again and trim the corners at a 45 degree angle.
5. Fold the 1/2 inch overlap over to make sealed edges.
6. Make a second sheet, this time slightly smaller than the first (but still larger than your dollar bill).
   • seal the top edge, but use the bottom and side overlaps to seal this sheet to your first (this makes a pocket & your basic wallet structure)
   
   
7. To add ID or credit card pockets, you'll make a sheet (just like we did above) that is the same length as your wallet, but about half as tall (you will probably only need one strip of duct tape for each side of the pocket)





For more images go to The Duct Tape Guys

Source: The Duct Tape Guys

JUICE POUCH COIN PURSE

MATERIALS
Empty drink pouch
Scissors
Velcro
Finishing | hem tape
needle, thread &/or sewing machine
tape

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Carefully cut the sides, top, & bottom of the drink pouch, so that the front and back are now two separate pieces. If you like, with the scissors, go ahead and round the edges of the top and bottom (see picture above)
2. rinse with water, making sure the pouch pieces are clean, and pat or air dry.
3. Fold each of your pouch pieces into thirds. One will be the front of your purse, the other will be the back, with the velcroed flap.
4. For the front of your purse: keeping the top third folded back, unfold the bottom third, so you now have two-thirds of the pouch showing.
5. With your sewing machine, stitch the top (folded) edge
6. Sandwich the two pieces together, right sides out, and stitch around the edges using a zig-zag pattern. (you may need to tape the pieces together to make sure they don't slip while you're sewing. If you like, fold the finishing tape around the edges before you begin stitching, to give it a more finished look
7. Attach the velcro on the underside of the flap, and on the front of the purse.

[Download Instructions] - PDF

PULP FICTION COIN PURSE

MATERIALS
One paper back book.
The cheesier the cover, the better. Paperbacks come in a variety of sizes, but look for one that is at least 7" high and 4" across.

Sturdy paper or card stock.
Clear vinyl
Snap Faster Kit. check your fabric store around the velcro and other closures.
Sewing machine & thread

INSTRUCTIONS
1. Remove the cover from the book.
2. Cut your book cover, paper, and vinyl so that each measures 7" by 4"
3. Find the middle of the book cover and mark it with a horizontal line.
4. From the top, measure one inch down and make another horizontal line.
5. Do the same for the bottom.
6. Now fold along the lines you made.
7. Place the vinyl over the book cover, lining up the edges. Use paper clips to hold them together as you attach the snaps.
8. Using the same measurements as Steps 3-6, mark three horizontal lines on your paper and fold.
9. Getting out your paper clips again, place the paper lining on top of the book cover, fold over the edges, make sure it is all even, and clip the folded edges in place.
10. Make sure the paper clips are not in the way of your needle before you start sewing. By sewing the edges together you are attaching the lining to the book cover and forming the pockets by way of the folded edges.
    
    Sew as close to the edge as you can.
    
    You may choose to use a contrasting color of thread of decorative stitches.

Original source: Eat Your Heart Out Martha (eyhom.com)

[Edit 12/16]—The original website for this tutorial no longer exists. I'm trying to find another similar one with pictures, but until then you may just need to try this out as is. I welcome any pictures you may take of the process. (thanks all!)

37. Fleece Hat

MATERIALS

Soft tape measure
Fleece fabric
Pins
Strong matching thread
Scissors
Sewing machine

INSTRUCTIONS

Vertical-Stripe Hat

1. Measure the circumference of your head (around your ears). If you’re making the hat as a gift for someone and don’t know his or her size, use our size chart below. You’ll need four fabric panels, two of each color. To determine the width of the panels, divide the head circumference by four, and add 1/4 inch on each side for seam allowance. The length for an adult hat should be about 13 inches; for a child’s hat, about 10 inches. Cut out the panels.
   
2. Pin the right sides of the long ends of the panels together, alternating the colors. Sew panels together, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Sew the end panels, right sides together to form a tube.
   
3. Trim seam allowance closely. Use your fingers to open the seams; do not use an iron to press them, or the fabric could melt.
   
4. Flatten the hat, right sides together, so that two panels lay directly on top of the other two panels. Match up the center seams.
   
5. To make the hat’s cuff, fold fabric up about 3 inches; fold in again 1/4 inch. Sew hem close to the turned edge. Turn hat right side out.
   
6. Pin along the top of the hat and sew, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Trim seam.
   
7. Join the two corners of the top of the hat together with a single stitch. Using strong thread, bring the needle through the inside of one corner and down through the other. Pull thread tight so the corners meet at the center. Tie off the thread.

Solid-Color Hat

1. You’ll need one panel of fabric to make this hat. To determine the width of the panel, measure the circumference of your head (around your ears), or use our size chart below; add 1/4 inch on each side for seam allowance. The length for an adult hat should be about 13 inches; for a child’s hat, about 10 inches. Cut out the panel.
   
2. Sew the long ends, right sides together, to form a tube.
   
3. Trim seam allowance closely. Use your fingers to open the seams; do not use an iron to press them, or the fabric could melt.
   
4. To make the hat’s cuff, fold fabric up about 3 inches; fold in again 1/4 inch. Sew hem close to the turned edge. Turn hat right side out.
   
5. Sew along the top of the hat, leaving a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Trim seam.
   
6. Join the two corners of the top of the hat together with a single stitch. Using strong thread, bring the needle through the inside of one corner and through the other point. Pull thread tight so the corners meet at the center. Tie off the thread.

Horizontal-Stripe Hat

Follow the instructions for the solid-color hat, but combine horizontal bands of different-colored fleece to equal the correct height (about 13 inches for adults and 10 inches for children). Use as many bands as you like in any width; allow 1/4 inch for seam allowance on the top and bottom of each band, and 3 inches to the bottom band for the hat’s cuff.

Jester Hat

1. Follow steps 1 to 4 for the vertical-stripe hat above.
   
2. Measure the crown of your head (ear to ear as if for earmuffs) or use our chart below. Place one end of a soft tape measure at the bottom left corner of the hat, extend tape measure to the right corner of the hat, the distance equal to your crown measurement (for example, 14 inches if your crown measurement equals that). Hold both points of the tape measure in place, and arch the excess in between. Pin on the center seam, 3 inches above the highest point of the arc; that is your “low point.”
   
3. Mark the side seams 1 1/2 inches higher than the low point for a child’s hat, 2 inches higher for an adult’s. Connect the high points and low point with a marker, making a V. Sew along the V, making sure center seams match up. Trim seams, turn right side out, and shape points. Attach small pom-poms to each point (pom-pom instructions below).

Pom-pom

1. For a large pom-pom, cut a strip of fleece 24 inches in length (9 to 12 inches for a smaller pom-pom) and as wide as you would like the pom-pom to be, (our pom-pom for an adult hat is 4 inches wide). Fold the strip in half widthwise.
   
2. Lightly draw a line down the center of the fabric lengthwise. Cut fringes to the left and right of the line, leaving about 1/4 inch uncut in the center. The fringes can be as narrow or as wide as you like.
   
3. Roll up strip of fabric.
   
4. Using strong thread such as upholstery thread, bring the needle through the core of the pom-pom, and wrap the thread tightly around the center a few times. Bring needle through the core again, and tie a knot as close to the pom-pom as possible. Use the excess thread to sew the pom-pom to the top of the hat.

AVERAGE HEAD SIZES

Newborn (6 months and younger)
Circumference: 14 to 17 inches
Crown: 8 to 10 inches

Infant (6 to 12 months)
Circumference: 16 to 19 inches
Crown: 11 to 12 inches

Child (12 months to 3 years)
Circumference: 18 to 20 inches
Crown: 11 to 12 inches

Child (3 years and older)
Circumference: 20 to 22 inches
Crown: 13 to 14 inches

Adult Woman
Circumference: 21 to 23 1/2 inches
Crown: 13 to 15 inches

Adult Man
Circumference: 22 to 24 1/2 inches
Crown: 14 to 16 inches

Source: MarthaStewart.com

34. Felted Wool Mittens

Felting wool means shrinking it—on purpose! While results will vary from one type of wool to another, most will shrink quite dramatically and take on a tighter feeling, felt-like finish. The key is, you must use 100% WOOL fabric. Grab a few old all-wool sweaters from your closet or a second-hand store—the kind with holes in the elbows, or stretched out edges. With just a little effort, you can transform an "undesirable" into a pair of funky (and functional!) mittens. Here's how.


MATERIALS

At least one old 100% wool sweater (as long as you're going to the effort, you might as well felt a few - up to four or five will fit in the washing machine)

A bit of dishwasher detergent (not dish soap!)

Pattern tracing material

J & P Coats embroidery floss or Red Heart Yarn

INSTRUCTIONS

Before You Sew:

Loosely arrange the sweaters in the washing machine. Add a small amount (maybe 1/8 - 1/4 cup) of dishwashing detergent, then fill the machine using a "hot water wash/cold water rinse" cycle.

Machine dry the sweaters on the hottest temperature setting.

Ready, Set, Sew:

Make a mitten pattern by tracing your own hand (or someone else's) onto pattern tracing material.

Lay out the pattern on your felted sweater, playing with placement until you find just the right look. Sweaters with multi-colored designs or special stitches, like cable knits, offer lots of possibilities—enjoy! You can also utilize the ribbing on a sweater's lower edge, though don't expect it to be particularly functional. Once the sweater is felted, much of the stretch is long gone. So you'll find these mittens aren't snug fitting. But they are very cool—and warm at the same time!

Cut two mittens on a double-layer of fabric. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch each set together along the outer edge using a straight running stitch, whipstitch or blanket stitch. Perfect stitches NOT required. You can also machine stitch using a long stitch length (5.0mm).

To do the running stitch, use yarn or heavy thread like embroidery floss—all strands in the skein—and a large-eyed needle. Then just run the needle in and out of the fabric.





If desired, add a final row of the running stitches around the "cuff" area, gathering slightly and finishing with a bow. Or add button embellishments—whatever your pleasure.

Original source: SYSF

New source: Dabbled

[Edit 12/16] The original source for this project appears to no longer be on the Web, although the instructions are pretty easy to follow. You can also find similar instructions (with pictures) at Dabbled.org.

If you like green / eco-conscious gifts, you might want to check out:

Big Green Book of Recycled Crafts (Leisure Arts #4802)
by House, Allan Ed. and Leisure Arts and Leisure ArtsTrade Paperback

28. "Little Treasures" Gift Box

MATERIAL

2 8x8 squares of fabric (your choice of colors)
2 8x8 squares of fusible web
1 8x8 square pellon
straight pins
parchment paper or Teflon sheet
Iron & Ironing board
freezer paper
scissors
Rotary cutter (optional)
Fray Check
Sewing machine
embellishments of your choice

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Select 2 fabrics, 1 for the outside of your box and 1 for the lining, and cut an 8" x 8" square of each. You can use fabrics that you have altered with paint or dye, or select commercial fabrics.
2. Cut two 8" x 8" squares of fusible web and one 8" x 8" piece of Pellon.
3. Make a sandwich of the 5 pieces: first, put down the lining fabric, wrong side up, then add a piece of fusible web, then the Pellon, another piece of fusible web, and finally the fabric for the outside of your box, right-side up.
4. Place a piece of parchment paper or a Teflon sheet on your ironing board to protect it from the fusible web, put the fabric sandwich on top of it, and place another sheet of parchment on top of the sandwich to protect your iron. Following the directions for the fusible web, iron your fabric sandwich until all layers adhere. You will probably need to press one side and then flip the fabric sandwich over and press the other side.
5. Trace the pattern of the box onto the dull side of the freezer paper and cut it out.
6. Iron the freezer paper pattern (shiny side down) onto the fabric sandwich and cut out your box. Cut carefully - this step will make the difference between an elegant piece of art and a misshapen little box. (An 18mm rotary cutter may be helpful to cut the sides of each slit and embroidery scissors to cut the ends of the slits.)
7. Sew close to all of the raw edges, including the slits. (I found that a straight stitch caused less fraying than a zigzag stitch.)
8. Put Fray Check on the raw edges of the "knobs" at the top of the box because they get a lot of use and tend to fray.
9. If desired, use a foam brush to paint the edges of the box with fabric paint to cover any white from the Pellon or fusible web that may show. Using a metallic bronze, gold, or copper acrylic paint will give your box a "gilded" look.
10. Embellish, as desired. Create designs and interest with piping, bobbin work, Swarovski crystals, beads, braid, sequins, glitter paint, and more. Remember that whatever you sew on the front will show up on the lining.
11. To construct the box, pull the 2 swirl-shaped petals together. Holding them with one hand, bring one of the petals with a slit up and over the top of the swirl petals. Last, bring the other slit petal up and over the other three petals.

Source Quilting Arts Magazine

For more quilting fun:

Fabulous Fabric Art with Lutradurr For Quilting Papercrafts Mixed Media Art 27 Techniques & 14 Projects Revolutionize Your Craft Experience
by Diana HillTrade Paperback

23. Embroidered linens

MATERIALS

Tea towels, Hand towels, Napkins, Pillow cases, Handkerchiefs (whatever you'd like to embroider)
Embroidery transfer (can be found at any fabric or craft store - makes your life SO much easier)
Iron
Embroidery thread, needle
Embroidery hoop
Scissors

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Set the iron temperature to high. Lay down your tea towel, Pillow case, etc. and place the transfer face down where you would like it to be. Make sure to leave enough room so you can attach the hoop.
2. Tape or hold the pattern firmly in place and glide the iron over the design. You need to do it only two or three times, pressing hard so a light trace of the design will appear. Don't make it too dark because you don't want it to show after you've embroidered it.
3. Peel off the transfer and save it for future use.
4. Attach the hoop around the design, so that the fabric is tight like a drum.
5. Thread the needle with a 12-inch strand of thread. Leave a 1-inch tail extending from the top of the needle and tie a knot at the other end.
6. Find your starting point and bring the needle up through the bottom of the design and out the top. Bring the needle back down. Continue the process until you've outlined the entire design, switching thread colors as desired.
7. When you finish, turn the piece over, snip the thread, tie it in a knot at the base of the fabric and snip excess. Iron the towel so it is crisp.

Source Kathy Cano-Murillo

For more embroidery patterns, check out Andrew Schapiro's Sublime Stitching:

Sublime Stitching Hundreds of Hip Embroidery Patterns & How To
by Andrew SchapiroSpiral/Comb

12. Laundry Sachet

Similar to the No Sew Sachet, except this time you don't use glue or heat sensitive adhesives.

MATERIALS

Fabric scraps (muslin works well, although you can use any tightly woven fabric)

Another option is to use small muslin draw string bags (usually found at craft stores & just cinch the bag closed after adding the lavender)

matching thread
1/2 cup lavender buds for each Sachet (you can find these online or in the wellness section at your health food store.)

INSTRUCTIONS

1. For each sachet, place 2 matching 5-inch fabric squares back-to-back and sew the edges together on 3 sides.
   
2. ll the sachet with about 1/2 cup of lavender. Then sew together the open edges.

These may be thrown into the dryer with your damp clothes. Use up to 6 times before replenishing or replacing.

11. Grain filled Hug (Heating Pad)

Grain-filled heating pads have become quite popular in health food stores, gifts shops and at craft bazaars. But they are often quite costly. Here is a set of simple and thrifty instructions to make your own rice-filled heating pad using scraps of fabric you may already have on hand.

MATERIALS

1/4 yd. Fabric of your choice, prewashed and preshrunk
1/4 yd. Muslin
Iron
Straight pins
Thread to match your fabric
White thread
Scissors
Ruler -or- a measuring tape and anything with a straight edge
1 ½ cups Grain: Rice (not the quick cooking variety), Flax seed, Rolled Oats (not instant oatmeal), or Barley all work well.

INSTRUCTIONS
Part one: The rice bag

1. From pre-washed cotton muslin, or similar fabric, cut a piece 8" x 22".
2. Fold the rectangle in half so now it measures 8" x 11" and sew the two longer edges. You can use your serger, if you have one.
3. Turn right sides out, so you now have a nice little fabric bag. Iron if necessary.
4. Fill the bag with about 3 C. of grain (rice, barley, whatever). It should be pretty full, about 2/3 filled, but still have some give to it, like a bean bag.
5. Sew or serge the end of the bag shut. You may want to turn in the ends so there are no raw edges, and use pins to keep the grain from sliding out on the sewing table. Of course, you can also whipstitch the opening closed by hand.

Part Two: The Cover

You can use either cotton flannel, a small towel, or regular quilting cotton for the cover: anything that will be soft and comfortable against the skin. Do not use synthetic fabrics, or fabrics with metallics in them. This is going to be heated in the microwave, remember!

1. Cut your cover with dimensions one to two inches wider than you cut your grain bag, and three to five inches longer. In this example, that would be 9x25 inches.
2. Lay the fabric wrong side up on your table, and fold over one end about half an inch to hem it. Fold the opposite end over the same way.
3. Sew both end hems. (separately, not together)
4. Lay the cover out again, right side up. Take one hemmed end and fold it back a few inches. In this example we should have 2 inches to fold. Finger press into place. Fold the opposite hemmed end over the previous fold, so the hem meets up with the first folded edge
5. Sew the two long edges of the cover, being sure to sew through all the layers.
6. Turn inside out. You should now have something that resembles a fabric sandwich bag, with a flap at one end. When the grain bag is inserted, fold the flap over the open end to close it.
7. That's it! Remember that the cover can be taken off for cleaning, since the grain inside can't get wet.

Heating Instructions:

To use, heat your bag in the microwave for about 1-1/2 to 2 minutes. Alternately, put it in a plastic bag and store in the freezer, for those times you need a cold pack.

The rice retains heat or cold for about 20 minutes. The rice gets a warm, toasty smell when heated. You might notice a slight dampness when the bag is heated, this is just normal moisture in the grain.

The bags can be re-heated indefinitely, although you can certainly replace the filling when you feel it is no longer holding warmth. I've had some going for over a year now and they are working fine.

IMPORTANT! Be careful heating your grain pack. Do not heat them more than a minute or two, and be certain the heat is evenly distributed. Overheating the bag can result in severe burns to the skin.

From Reddawn.net